Daily-ish Blog 2019 - The Hiking Traveler

(Latest update: August 23, 2019)

I created this web page for my friends and family who avoid social media to follow me on my adventures. I have found it difficult to budget my time properly to write articles while on the go. So instead I will update this page each time I have access to good WiFi.

Please check in here to see what I have added.

Cheers! Carolyn

Scotland!

The Fishwives Path

There was a time before WWI that the wives of the local fishermen carried about 40 pounds of fish for 15 miles from the small fishing village of Buckie to the market village of Keith. Following are highlights of that walk.

Looks like rain.. But we lucked out. It was partly sunny with the occasional shower. Perfect hiking weather.

I had some problem locating the actual starting point of our walk, so o chose to follow these signs. They pointed in the correct general direction.

We ate our lunch across the road from this old smithy in Drybridge.

We finished our trek in Keith where we rode a bus back to Fochabers.

Fochabers Village Tour

A grand entry to the driveway leading to Gordon Castle and Gordon Castle Walled Garden.

I visited the Fochabers Heritage Museum and met very delightful volunteers who shared their knowledge of the area so that I could explore on foot and via public bus. They even gave me a guide to the historical side of Fochabers.

The view of Fochabers from the bus stop at The Square.

Village cross of Old Fochabers. The village cross served as the village whipping post. Convicted persons were tied by leather thongs to the cross and whipped publicly.

River Spey. There used to be a ferry crossing here until a bridge was built.

A nice little pond on the hill above the village.

A view of the village from a hiking trail.

The tower of Gordon Castle is well protected by tall trees. It was originally built in the 1400’s and underwent various expansions, destruction and dereliction before the current family purchased it. It is a private residence, so this is as close as I could get.

July 15 – 30: Gordon Castle Walled Garden

Gordon Castle Walled Garden – about 8 acres of fruit, vegetables, herbs and flowers, all organically grown, so weeding is done manually.

Now my working holiday begins at this little village of Fochabers. I signed up with Gordon Castle Walled Garden to stay for 2 weeks. As a guest here I agree to work 4 hours a daytime Monday through Friday and they provide a place to live, breakfast and lunch.

Some weeding was done standing up using a hoe. Other weeding was sitting down and pulling weeds manually.

July 16: I officially started work. I met the gardeners on staff and the other 3 Wwoofers. (College students from France.) I was issued a pair of gloves and given my first assignment – weeding the onion beds. I was also asked to cut lettuce leaves for salad mix for the on-site cafe.

We got a break at 10 am, which included a cup of tea from the cafe. Then we finished our work day at 12:30 pm and were served a bowl of soup with bread for lunch. The remainder of the day is free to explore the area or whatever I choose to do.

July 17: I got a roommate, Laura, also from France, near Paris. She’s between jobs as a book seller.

Wildflowers help support the birds and bees.

Medicinal herbs bed. In the background, the house used to be the head gardener’s house.

These strawberry beds, as well as all the soft fruit beds, were thick with weeds. We slaved for hours and days pulling weeds and the beds look much nicer. The weeds still visible at the top of the photo have since been pulled. And such is life on an organic farm.

July 14 – A quiet day of rest.

July 13 – Stonehaven

I took a gander at the area map to see if there are any castle ruins I haven’t visited yet near Aberdeen. Sure enough, Stonehaven fit the bill. This ancient village was home to Dunnottar Castle. This is where the Scottish Crown Jewels we’re safely hidden for centuries until they found again and are on display at Edinburgh Castle.

Here is the oldest building in Stonehaven, built in the late 1500’s. It was first a prison, then served many other functions. It now serves as a museum.

During my walk to the castle I came across this war memorial, which sits atop a hill overlooking the village of Stonehaven, the Moray Firth (the bay), and Dunnottar Castle.

A view of Dunnottar Castle along the Coastal Path. It appears to have been quite large in its day.

This is as far as I went into the castle. It was pretty exciting to know that the Scotland Crown Jewels were hidden here in the 1650’s, forgotten, then recovered with the help of Sir Walter Scott in 1818.

On my app Maps.me I saw that there was another castle site on the other side of Stonehaven. It was along the Coastal Path, easy enough to walk over there. I found the path to be overgrown with very tall weeds. I found the location by looking at my gps but when I looked for any ruins or information board there was none. This is the view of the site.

July 12 – Dracula’s Castle and more!

Once again, I looked on the map to see what castle ruins are within a day trip of my hostel. As luck would have it, New Slains Castle was in the nearby village of Cruden Bay. This is purported to be the inspiration for Dracula’s Castle when Bram Stoker wrote his novel Dracula.

When I boarded my bus I told the driver where I wanted to go. He recommended that I visit another site first, then walk over to the castle and finish up in Cruden Bay. Fortunately it was all well way marked and I had a very pleasant coastal walk.

A great little bonus to my adventure of the day. Ancient village on the coast.

This little depression in the ground may be all that is left of the village that once prospered here.

The Coastal Path is loaded with striking views.

Off in the distance is my first glimpse of New Slains Castle.
Old Slains Castle was built about 100 years before this one and is in greater ruin about 7 miles south of the “new” castle.

This was was built in 1597 for the 9th Earl of Errol. It was renovated and revised over the centuries. It is said that Bram Stoker visited it and decided to base Dracula’s Castle on this.

It was a short walk to the village of Cruden Bay. I chatted with this couple (walking toward the coast). They started walking the coast of Britain on January 1 of this year. They are about 2/3 done.

After such a wonderful adventure, I treated myself to a dessert of Sticky Toffee Pudding. It was delicious!

July 11 – Transition to Aberdeen

When I left Trish at Aviemore, I rode the next train to Inverness and checked into a hostel.

Stayed the night in Inverness, then boarded a bus to Aberdeen.

July 10 – Hiking with a friend from home!

I joined a gym a couple of years ago and met this amazing woman. She and I share a common interest of hiking and exploring the great outdoors. We often said that we should hike together but our schedules never synced. So last year, when I returned from my adventures in the UK she was already planning her 2-week vacation for this year, which was all about hiking in the Highlands. It wasn’t until I was nearly done with my Ireland adventure that we chose a date, time and place to meet so that we could hike together for one day. She was bold enough to rent a car and drive on the wrong side of the road, and so we went to a trail that was nowhere near a bus stop or train station and it was on the east side of the Scottish Highlands. Trish and her friend, Nona, are the best hiking companions! We had to travel 5,000 miles, and to a foreign land to finally get to hike together.

We stopped by the Inverlochy Castle ruin. Just outside of Fort William.

Looking back at Lagan Loch. A typical overcast day in the Highlands.

Lunchtime at a cozy little loch. This was also our turnaround point.

Left to right: Nona, Trish and me. Parting company at Aviemore Train Station.

Glasgow

July 9 – Transition to Fort William

I’m on my way to meet a friend from my gym in Loomis, California.

Imagine that, another rainy summer day in Scotland. The rain is what keeps those waterfalls flowing.

Chase the Wild Goose hostel is a hidden treasure in the Fort William area.

The Neptune’s Staircase is a series of 8 locks over a quarter of a mile to raise or lower boats 62 feet on the Caledonian Canal. This little gem is a block away from my hostel.

This cute little white lighthouse appears to no longer be operating. It sets at the shore of Loch Linnhe.

July 8 – Dunure & Ayr

I hadn’t explored Scotland south of Glasgow, so I took a day trip to Ayr, a short train ride down the coast. And then I rode a bus a few miles south to Dunure so I could visit a castle ruin and also little harbor that was a location set for the TV series Outlander.

William Wallace is memorialized in the city of Ayr.

The River Ayr runs through the city of Ayr.

This building in Ayr is a rare find. It is one of the oldest medieval secular structures that can be found in Scotland.

Upon arriving in Dunure, a small village south of Ayr, I needed to find a bathroom. 30 pence entry fee. I really think they should charge to exit, not enter. 😜

What better place to enjoy lunch than at a picnic table near a castle ruin.

Dunure Castle was once a part of the Kennedy properties. It fell to ruin about 200 years after it was completed in the 1400’s.

This bell-shaped dovecote was where they kept doves for eggs and meat.

I walked this labyrinth, which is next to the castle, but may have been built much later.

This cute little harbor was transformed into an 18th century French port for the TV series Outlander.

Somewhere between Dunure and Ayr the Scottish poet Robert “Rabbie” Burns was born in this cottage.

July 7 – Wallace Monument and Bannockburn Battlefield

A short bus ride from Glasgow is Stirling, home to a castle that I visited 2 years ago and two monuments / memorials I hadn’t seen except from afar.

Entrance to the William Wallace Memorial.

The visitor center is at the base of a wee hill, the top of which stands the memorial to William Wallace.

These actors share a first hand account following the victory for Scotland in the Battle of Stirling Bridge. The fellow on the left was a proud Scot. The fellow on the right was a defeated English soldier. I am holding a replica of the sword held by William Wallace in battle.

From the top of the monument I could see Stirling Castle and the River Forth, which is where the battle took place on September 11, 1297.

The inscription on this memorial, which was written by Kathleen Jamie, states:
Here lies our land: every airt
Beneath swift clouds, glad glints of sun,
Belonging to none but itself.
We are mere transients, who sing
Its westlin’ winds and fernie braes,
Northern lights and siller tides,
Small folk playing our part.
‘*Come all ye*’, the country says,
*You win me, who take me most to heart.*

Robert the Bruce led Scotland to victory in Bannockburn in June of 1314. He picked up where William Wallace left off.

This clock tower is all that is left of the original church that stood here in the early 1700’s. It was demolished by the Jacobites in January of 1746. The Jacobites had stored ammunition in the church but feared the British troops might acquire it, so they destroyed the ammunition instead, taking the church with it.

July 6 – Devil’s Pulpit

Children’s Hospital Dispensary. This seemingly empty building first opened its door in 1888 to provide free medical care to the children of Glasgow. It is close to a bus stop for my journey in search of the Devil’s Pulpit.

My quest to find Devil’s Pulpit brings me to the Glengoyne Whisky Distillery.

I followed a public path through a sheep pasture and onto The West Highland Way / John Muir Way. I headed North.

I left the trailafter about 2 miles and walked about 1 mile on this narrow and very busy country road.

Several of these signs were posted around the access points of Finnich Glen, aka Devil’s Pulpit. I considered myself warned.

One look at the Devil’s Staircase and I decided I didn’t really need to get up close to the Devil’s Pulpit.

I did walk down to the stream on an easier trail and this is what I saw.

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Quiet time in Belfast

July 1 – 4

I decided to take some time to rest and catch up on my posts on my blog, as you will see below. This is my second visit here. It is a lovely city with a great transportation system. There are a few sights I wish to see, but top of my priorities is to bring this blog up to date and it is. Next, Instagram and Facebook.

Update: I got distracted and never blogged. Now that I am in Scotland, I shall fill in where I have been of late.

July 1 – I had an easy day. The bus stop was a short walk from my accommodation. I arrived at the stop the same time as the bus.

Another bus ride. This one to Dublin. Then another on to Belfast.

Upon arriving in Dublin I had to change buses. I caught the next one to Belfast.

These cows held up traffic before turning up this lane.

Love the scenery in the Irish countryside

Fortunately, the train station is connected to the bus station, so the walk to catch the next train to Botanic Station was easy. Then I followed my GPS to the Lagan Backpackers hostel. I checked in for three nights. I took a short walk to the grocery store, relaxed the remainder of the day.

July 2 – Today was basically another rest day. I had some issues with my local mobile phone that took me a couple of hours to resolve. I sat inside the Vodafone store while on the phone with customer support for a long time. After I got one major issue resolved a salesman in the store gave me a lesson on how the data is used by my phone even when I wasn’t using my phone. I shut off all data. I just wanted to use this phone for talk and text, not for internet access. With that out of the way, I just meandered back to the hostel and began researching and planning for my transition to Scotland.

July 3 – I walked over to the post office, packaged up my sleeping bag & pad and a couple of other items and shipped them home.

Then I decided to follow the way markers for the Titantic Trail. It starts at the city hall where they have a memorial to those who died at sea.

The trail took me past several stained glass monuments. They are part of a series of 6 glass monuments featuring characters and landmarks from The Game of Thrones tv series. It’s entitled Glass of Thrones. I chose not to pay the £15.50 admission fee. Instead I treated myself to a tea and cake at a cafe next to it. There were a couple of musicians playing traditional Irish folk music. So worth the price of admission.

July 4 – Happy 4th to my fellow Americans!

Today I rode the train to the little port village of Larne. The train station is connected to the ferry terminal so that was easy. I had about an hour to wait before boarding the ferry. I did have to walk through security. My bags were X-rayed and the security officers were very personable and friendly, as I was the first and only passenger checking in. Others arrived closer to boarding time.

We had to ride a bus onto the ferry. Once parked we were allowed to roam around the passenger portion of ferry. I chose to hang out on one of the exterior decks.

This little island is the sole source for curling stones.

I chatted with a handsome young man for the duration of the ride (2 hours). I think his name was Mark. He offered to drive me on into Glasgow. I accepted. We talked for another 2 hours until he dropped me off at my hostel. We probably will not meet again. I checked in and settled into my private room.

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The Wicklow Way 2019

A mere 80-mile journey through the ancient east of Ireland, Wicklow County.

After a couple of weeks recovery I have embarked on an 80–mile, 7-day trek through the Wicklow Mountains. I am having my backpack delivered to each night’s accommodation. And I have already met some amazing ladies.

Sunday, June 30

Shillelagh to Clonegal

Last night I was totally off grid, so I couldn’t review the trail description online. I relied on my memory of what I had read earlier. I knew it was supposed to be 13 miles, mostly on roads. With that in mind, I packed my hiking boots and donned my new Altra Torins. My host dropped me back at The Dying Cow, then took my backpack on to my accommodation in Bunclody.

I was pleased to see the sun shining. I was also hoping I packed enough snacks and water to get me to the finish point at Clonegal.

My last day on this journey. My host brought me back to The Dying Cow for what turned out to be a 16-mile trek, mostly on asphalt.

Starting out on a quiet country road. The sun made an appearance this morning.

This way marker stated that Clonegal was only 13 k away. 8 miles, easy peas. Or was it?

I must be returning to civilization as the quiet country roads are the path of the day.

There were some dirt roads along the way that took me through some more forest land.

After the first summit of the day I got to leave the dirt road and follow a grassy road downhill. I finally started meeting north-bound hikers along this section. As you can see, clouds were looming. Yes, I did get rained on before reaching my destination.

So glad the way markers keep me on course. The mileage shown is deceiving, as the path makes yet another detour before approaching Clonegal.

The last of the way markers. The trailhead is close at hand.

Today was very difficult for me. I tend to get emotional when a good thing comes to an end, and this ranks up there as one of the best experiences. I finally learned to read the distances on the All Trails Maps I was using and discovered that yesterday I finished short of my target 13 miles and had to make up for it today. I ended up walking 16 miles.

I was ready to throw in the towel a few times. I just didn’t want to go any further. In order to help clear my mind of misery I turned on my Outlander music from seasons 1, 2 & 3. I was much further from the end of the trail that I had thought because the 3 hours of music ended precisely as I walked up to the trailhead marker.

I was rewarded with this certificate of completion at the second pub I stopped in after arriving in Clonegal. The first pub I entered was across the street from the park. While I was sipping my pint of Guinness one woman asked me if I had gotten my certificate. She then told me where I could obtain it, at another pub down the road. Of course, I had to order a pint at the second pub while the owner stamped my certificate. Good thing I wasn’t driving. My ride arrived shortly thereafter.

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Saturday, June 29

Moyne to Shillelagh

All refreshed after by far the best breakfast served on The Wicklow Way. Ready for another sunny day of hiking.

The shortcut that Pat shared with me yesterday was right next to the house I slept in. Great start to my day.

I got to walk alongside a wind farm and tree plantation as I climbed another mountain.

The alternate trail, the Kyle Loop, was well marked and in the dirt. Had I stayed on The Wicklow Way I would have been walking on the road. Much better for my feet and body.

The foxglove does add some color to the otherwise very green scenery.

Back on The Wicklow Way. What a nice distraction along this route.

This lovely lady caused quite a stir in Shillelagh back in the 1920’s. She had the gall to serve beer on a Sunday. She told the police she was feeding these men for helping her with a dying cow. She was fined £5 and the pub was dubbed “The Dying Cow.”
I ordered a cup of tea and called for a ride to my next accommodation.

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Friday, June 28

Glenmalure to Moyne

I started today at the halfway point of this journey.

I had to stay in Glendalough last night because there was nothing affordable in Glenmalure. My driver was very sweet. He gave me a history lesson and explained how the forests were another arable crop.

Once again I was walking alone. But that was okay. I did pass a few hikers going in the opposite direction. One gentleman I met has walked these trails numerous times and was happy to share some of his insights. He even told me of a couple of shortcuts to consider on my way to Moyne & Shillelagh.

I walked through yet another forest. The sun was shining brightly for me.

If you look carefully in the center there is a stone structure. This was a military barracks from the time of Cromwell. It was converted into a hostel several years ago, and now is an AirBnB.

These hikers were walking in the opposite direction as me. They took a break at Iron Bridge to sing. They were lovely to listen to.

Well, looks like a small traffic jam. These sheep were on their way to the shearing shed.

These donkeys were torn between watching me and watching a deer hop through the bracken in the other side of the field.

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Thursday, June 27

Glendalough to Glenmalure

I walked this day alone, as I was slow getting out of the hostel. I was in no hurry. Less than 9 miles. I did stop and chat with my new friend, Tiffani, since she got a ride to Glenmalure so that she could walk straight back to her accommodation in Glendalough.

When I arrived in Glenmalure I joined a group hikers, with whom I shared dorm rooms, for a pint of Guinness and a snack at the only pub in town.

And I got in one last visit with two other solo female hikers before they continued on ahead of me. Our paces and destinations were different from this point on.

Such a peaceful setting as I leave Glendalough.

Looking back toward Glendalough at the ancient monastery.

Much of the trail was along a dirt road that steadily climbed uphill.

Closer to the top of the mountain I had a long stretch of the elevated boardwalk.

Two fellow solo female hikers. We saw each other on the trail, sometimes walked together, sometimes stayed in the same dorm room. Good luck to Melanie and Isabel as they continue hiking to the Atlantic Coast.

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Wednesday, June 26

Roundwood to Glendalough

Imagine a stunning view that would be there if it weren’t for the mist.

The ruins of a monastic city is the heart of Glendalough. It was founded by St Kevin in the 9th century.

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Tuesday, June 25

Knockree to Roundwood

The breakfast room view from Knockree Hostel. I have to walk over those mountains to get to my next hostel in Roundwood.

I cannot escape the occasional road in order to enter a woodland or meadow or bog. This is the Crone Estate, leading me to Crone Wood.

The trail includes some very interesting geology.

The trail was easy to follow, down into the valley and then up and over the mountain.

I felt we were in a SciFi movie with all the mist surrounding us. Especially when hikers coming from the south slowly appeared in the horizon.

We walked through a blanket bog on a raised boardwalk. I felt like I was walking with Frodo in one of the Lord of the Rings movies. The one where he was walking through a bog and saw dead people floating at the surface beckoning him to join them.

Ok, Vikings tv series fans, here is one of their locations for filming. We were rewarded with this amazing view after a few kilometers walking on the boardwalk.

We escaped the boardwalk for a short distance, then we entered this forest and were back on it. We came across this photo club trying to capture the unique light and shadow of the trees filtering the sunlight.

The welcoming committee at Lus Mor B&B. My accommodation for the night.

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Monday, June 24

Dublin to Knockree

One of the reasons I love about walking in this part of the world is access to public transportation. I waked a short distance from my hostel and waited for a city bus, which would take me within a quarter mile of the trailhead to my next long distance hike.

I caught a glimpse of yet another ruin on my way to Marlay Park

Here I am, at the trailhead for the Wicklow Way in a parking lot in a park in a suburb of Dublin. I am waiting for my luggage transfer service to pick up my backpack and deliver to the Knockree hostel, my destination for the day, which is only 13 miles away.

This is a well way marked trail. We did have to walk along some roads for a bit before we got into the countryside.

Once we left the roads we were on well defined paths. Here is one paved with granite steps.

We walked through a bog, which then makes sense that we had to maneuver around and across many, many puddles.

I did have a walking companion, whom I met at the trailhead. Lucky for me she was also not in a hurry.

Shortly before reaching the hostel we had to walk through this tunnel of trees. I kept an eye open for Snow White and the 7 Dwarves.

With my new friend, Tiffani. She helped time fly on our first day of walking.

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June 21 – 23

Dublin

Near where we are standing, as explained by my second tour guide, Dublin had it’s own “Jack the Ripper“ attacking women only they did catch the perpetrator. He was a prison guard dressed in a black boar skin.

On the day I followed the two free walking tours I wore my flip flops, as I was tired of wearing my hiking boots. After the second tour I walked to the nearest running store and purchased a new pair of running shoes with lots of cushion for those days I will be walking on a lot of pavement. My hiking boots prefer dirt.

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The Ireland Way 2019

A map showing the route we are following through the heart of Ireland.

My most recent updates will be here:

June 18 – 21

Ballycastle

I returned to Ballycastle and stayed in the Backpackers Ballycastle hostel. It is a quiet week here so I actually had a four-bed dorm room all to myself. (I’m getting spoiled on the Causeway Coast. I had the same arrangement at Rick’s Causeway Hostel after Mary returned home.)

I did not lounge around much. One day I rode a bus to Cuendun to view some caves used in filming Game of Thrones. Then walked most of the way back on quiet country roads.

The next day I rode a bus to/from a nearby castle ruin. Then strolled down the beach, around town, and into a book launch party.

The bus stop is just a block from my accommodation. Drivers are usually very friendly and helpful. Exact change is not required!

Cushendun is a quaint little harbor village on the Irish Sea facing the Firth of Clyde in Scotland. This once was an important trading center with Scotland.

This sculpture is of the last animal to be culled in the hoof & mouth outbreak in 2001.

Here is the location of some caves used in the filming of Game of Thrones. The caves are just on the edge of town. They are a relatively new attraction as I did not see any way markers pointing me in he right direction. I used a map app and asked locals where they were.

Amazing! A castle ruin! This is Castle Carra. No information board about it. But A quick internet search revealed that this once served as a prison for Sorley Boy MacDonnell in 1567.

Looking back at Cushendun from Torr Road, on my way to Torr Head.

A panorama view from Torr Head. This was the mid-point between Cushendun and Ballycastle. I did get a ride from some boys from Belfast when I was just 1 mile from here. On a clear day you can see the Mull of Kintyre, Scotland.

That’s right. I had 14 total miles to walk, as this sign was 1 mile from the side trip to Torr Head. I walked another 3 miles and was running out of steam when a car pulled over. The driver offered me a ride back to Ballycastle.

I treated myself to an ice cream cone (single scoop) after dinner. The heavens opened up full force before I could leave the ice cream stand. I ate standing up.

The rain let up and I returned to my hostel. A pigeon had sought sanctuary on the coat stand in the entry to the hostel.

Thursday I stayed closer to home. I rode a bus to the turnoff to Kinbane Castle. It was at least 1 mile to the information board. Another 1/2 mile to the castle. This was one of at least 8 castles in Northern Ireland owned by the MacDonnell clan (of Scotland).

I rode the bus back to town and took a walk along the beach.

This is as close to the Dark Hedges that I got. This is the path that leads up to the ruins and graveyard for the Bonamargy Friary. It also is surrounded by a golf course. Hole 3 runs along side of this. It is called “The Abbey” with a par 3.

This creative city limit sign features the highlights of Ballycastle. Four swans from a myth “The Children of Lir”, the Bonamargy Friary, coal mine cart, Neolithic inhabitants, traditional Irish music, Holy Trinity Church, and a wireless tower signal (Marconi did work on developing his wireless communication idea in Ballycastle).

I wrapped up the day by attending the book launch of Dermot Breen’s New book “Exiles: A Journey Through Ireland From Beara to Ballycastle”. Dermot is my hero for many reasons, but the one that stands out is that he is one of a select few who has completed the Ireland Way. I need to come back and finish what I have started.

This sign sign is at the Marine Corner bus stop. Am I elderly?

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June 13 – 18

Belfast

I’ve been exploring the city of Belfast for the last few days. It is a lovely city. Did you know that Belfast was at one time the world’s leader in making linen, ropes, tea and ship building? During my stay here I took a couple of free tours, walked to the top of a high bluff which was the site of an ancient fortress, and played cards with some fellow travelers.

Belfast Castle sits high on a hill. The first castle was built of wood by the Normans in the 12th century, and was subsequently burned down. The next was built of stone and timber in the 17th century. Again, burned down by invaders. This current castle was build in the late 19th century and is own and maintained by the city.

There are 9 representations of cats in the castle garden. The cats are said to bring good fortune. I located all nine. They are statues of various media, tile, and part of a park bench.

Another of the nine cats in the castle garden. This one was easy to locate. Others not so much so.

This is the trail leading from the castle to the bluff overlooking all of Belfast and beyond. The hillock on the right is a cairn built by ancient inhabitants.

I’m standing on the site of an ancient fortress. Far off in the distance is the coast of Wales, I think. Or England.

The return path to the castle included this lovely shaded set of stone steps.

Saturday was parade day outside my hostel. Many flute and drum bands marched past the hostel.

During a free tour of City Hall I volunteered to model a robe worn by city councillors.

Following up on a tour guide’s suggestion, I boarded a city bus and visited C.S. Lewis Square. I was delighted to find several sculptures of characters from “Chronicles of Narnia, A Lion, A Witch, and A Wardrobe. Aslan was the first one I saw.

The Victoria Shopping Centre features a 360 view of the city. I’m looking at the shipyard and Titantic Museum in this pic.

The great seal of the city of Belfast. An Irish wolfhound on the left. A giant seahorse on the right. A ship in the center. The bell above the ship is just a play on the city’s name. The literal translation from Gaelic is “the mouth of the river”. The motto across the bottom translated from Latin: What shall we give in return for so much?

Thursday, June 13

Rick’s Causeway Hostel was home for more than a week. I may return in a couple of years.

I said goodbye to my host, Rick, this morning. Caught a bus to Coleraine to then catch a train to Belfast.

In the Colerain train station waiting for the next train to Belfast.

I haven’t ridden a train for a while. It was quite nice. Since it was midday ridership was light and so there was plenty of room for my backpack to be stowed in the bicycle section of the car.

My hostel was a short walk from the train station. After checking in I treated myself to a shawarma lunch platter with Turkish tea. Followed with grocery shopping then most importantly, laundry! All my clothes are clean once again. The first time since Millstreet, I think.

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Wednesday, June 12

A Puffin! Larger than life. On Rathlin Island.

My first day totally solo. First time in a long time. I walked to Portrush to ride the bus to Ballycastle. While waiting I chatted with a woman from Scotland. She told me to dress warmly for the Edinburgh Tattoo. August nights can be cold outside the castle.

Once in Ballycastle I had to choose between catching the next bus to the Dark Hedges made famous by Game of Thrones or looking for Puffins on Rathlin Island. I walked into the local convenience store for some lunch snacks and who should I meet but my San Diego friends. They told me that there were puffins on Rathlin. Enough said, I bought a ticket on the next ferry out and didn’t look back.

The small birds on the cliff edge are a pair of puffins. Made it worth the excursion.

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Tuesday, June 11

Farewell, Mary! This journey was one we will be talking about for a very long time. Thanks for joining me.
Mary left today or be reunited with husband and dog.

I continued walking The Causeway Coast Trail without Mary. There were about 12 miles left on our journey. While waiting for the bus I met a couple of fellas from San Diego. They, too, are avid hikers of the British Isles. We compared experiences during the bus ride, then I left them on the bus.

The basalt columns were visible for a few more miles along the cliffs after Giant’s Causeway.

I started walking from Giant’s Causeway toward Carrick-a-Rede. I soon found myself in the company of a very nice English couple, walking a very brisk pace, as they wanted to reach one beach before high tide. When we got to Dunseverick Castle, 5 miles later, I excused myself so I could eat a light lunch.

This is all that is left of Dunseverick Castle. Built on the cliffs which eventually eroded away and removed the sturdy foundation it once had.

Then joined another woman from Switzerland for the next 5 miles. She was sweet enough to keep an eye on me when we had to walk over some boulders. We got to the beach before high tide. But we still needed to exit the beach at the other end before high tide. We met the fellas from San Diego again. They had started from Ballycastle and wanted to finish at Giant’s Causeway. No time to chat.

Just loved the interesting landscape on the trail.

We soon were at Ballintoy Harbor, one of the filming locations for Game of Thrones. My Swiss friend continued on her own and I reunited with my English friends. They even treated me to a Maud’s ice cream cone. I had Belgian chocolate. Yummy.

I meet some of the nicest people on my journey, never to see them again. Thank you for the ice cream.

I continued on my own the last 2 miles to Carrick-a-Rede. Treated myself to tea and chips, then back to the bus stop to retire to my hostel, exhausted.

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Monday, June 10

Yesterday was pouring rain. Today it was sunny. We rode the bus to Dunluce Castle (behind me) to continue on the Coastal Causeway Trail toward Giant’s Causeway.

Today was great. There was a breeze blowing, but the sun was also shining. We rode the bus back to Dunluce Castle and resumed our journey along The Causeway Coast Trail. We weren’t disappointed in any way possible. The scenery was stunning all along the coast. And The Giant’s Causeway was much larger than I had envisioned. There were a lot of people climbing around on the basalt formations but not near as many as there will be in July & August — peak holiday season.

The coastline changes dramatically at each turn.

A selfie of me with another woman taking a selfie at the Giant’s Causeway.

These basalt posts are amazing. All different heights but otherwise fairly uniform. The formations continue out into the water. There is another formation like this across the water in Scotland, as if it really was once a causeway that connected the two islands.

After soaking in these beautiful formations we hopped on the next bus to Old Bushmills Distillery. This is the world’s oldest licensed distillery – which was granted by King James I in 1608.

Took a tour then sampled their exclusive 12-year-old whiskey that can only be purchased at this distillery. Was very good.

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Sunday, June 9

The flying geese marks the end of the Ireland Way. My journey does not end here, as there is still much to explore.

Sometimes I sits and thinks, and sometimes I just sits. Author unknown.

I have had the time and WiFi at hand, but I have enjoyed just decompressing and reading these last few rainy days. And when it’s not raining I am exploring. I am just letting you know that I am well and in Portstewart in Northern Ireland. Today we will be exploring some of the Causeway Coast Way. Photos and stories to follow.

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Sunday, June 9

When we got to Dunluce Castle it was pouring rain accompanied with a little thunder and lightning. We were soaked after our guided tour and caught the next bus back to Portstewart. The rain stopped while waiting for the bus.

Today we walked rom the hostel to Dunluce. The weather held up until we got to the castle. Then we got soaked through to the bone. Beautiful castle but no up close pics.

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Saturday, June 8

This mailbox dates back to early 20th Century ring the reign of King George V

We had a day of rest. Mary’s toe was on the mend and she bought a new pair of walking shoes.

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Friday, June 7

We we finally got some sunshine again. We walked some of The Causeway Coast Way from our hostel toward Portrush, then caught a bus that took us to another bus stop where we caught a bus to Ballycastle. We took pictures of the end of The Ireland Way sculpture. We visited the Tourism Office and I got my Ireland Way passport stamped. Then caught the next bus to Carrick-a-Rede so we could walk across a very safe rope bridge to a small island that was in an important salmon fishing spot. We then returned back to the hostel so Mary could tend to her aching big toe.

The four geese sculpture marks the end of The Ireland Way.

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Thursday, June 6

St Patrick’s Well. This well had been an important source of water for centuries before St Patrick blessed it. It is no longer accessible.

Another rainy day. As we walked to St Patrick’s well, which marks the start of the Causeway Coast Way section of the Ulster Way. This trail is also the last section of the Ireland Way.

We were hit with a sleet shower. To escape it, we sought refuse in the posh golf club across the street. After the sleet stopped we returned to the hiking trail and headed back toward our hostel following the way markers. Our walk was cut short because Mary had a foot injury.

After our short walk from St Patrick’s Well I walked to a nearby supermarket and came across a bit of home: California Lodge B&B.

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Wednesday, June 5

On the Peace Bridge crosses the River Foyle, which runs through the middle of the city.

We only had one night and one day in Derry. Our hostel allowed us to store our bags on site until we were ready to catch our bus to Portstewart.

We hit sites in the central part of the city. We started at the Tower Museum and learned a bit of Irish history. Then walked the city walls, which were constructed in the 1600’s. Ate lunch at a sandwich shop that came highly recommended by a local docent at one of the historic churches. We were not disappointed. We walked across the Peace Bridge over the River Foyle and finished up back at the Tower Museum to watch a short film filled with a history of Derry. Did I mention that it rained on and off all day? Not a lot of pictures today.

We retrieved our bags, walked to the bus station and caught our bus to Portstewart via Coleraine. Our next hostel was very close to the bus stop. We were lucky enough to get a room to ourselves with our own bathroom.

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Tuesday, June 4

Back on the bus, almost. We had to take a taxi from Drumshanbo to the bustling community of Carrick-on-Shannon to board a bus to Derry / Londonderry

Mary had a long distance cousin pick us up when we arrived in Derry. She took us to her family farm where her parents still live. I was intrigued by the slit windows in the ancient byre (barn). Our hostess did not know the age of it. My guess, 1700’s.

Our bus ride to Derry, Northern Ireland was rain-soaked. The bus station was in the town center, so it was easy to find our hostel, with the help of Maps.me app. As soon as we checked into the hostel Mary’s cousin arrived, treated us to dinner then drove us back into the Republic of Ireland to meet her parents. We experienced more of the wonderful Irish hospitality that we have been treated to our entire journey.

We had a private room in the hostel and a shared bathroom. Great location, great price.

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Monday, June 3

Good morning!

I have been taking it easy for a couple of days in the village of Drumshanbo. We arrived by bus from Galway on Saturday, June 1.

Taking a break from long walks carrying our backpacks. Took a bus from Galway to Sligo, then another from Sligo to Drumshanbo.

A lovely lady waiting for the same bus as us was happy to share her local knowledge about where we can camp.

She also advised us on the fact that bus service is only on Friday & Saturday in and out of Drumshanbo. Since we planned to leave Tuesday morning, more research is needed to catch a bus to Derry, Northern Ireland.

A nice gravel path along a canal of the Shannon River.

We are back on the Beara Breifne Way, so Mary and I decide to walk the six miles to Leitrim Village to visit the ruins of the castle where Donal Cam O’Sullivan Beara completed his flight to freedom, just 14 days after leaving Castletownbere. All that is left of Castle O’Rourke is a section of a wall.

A small section of wall plus this monument is all that remains of Castle O’Rourke.

We toasted our achievement with a pint of cider at the Leitrim Inn & Lodge, then rode a taxi back to Drumshanbo. We could have walked back, but I just didn’t feel like walking in wind and rain. The sun shone much of the way to Leitrim, accompanied by gusts of wind, then the rain came down in force once we arrived.

We spent a quiet evening in the common room of the hostel before crawling back into our dry sleeping bags in our cozy 2-person tent. The rain fell and we stayed dry because Mary had sealed the seams of the rain fly after we got soaked earlier on our journey.

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Friday, May 31.

Hello, all! It is a lovely day in Galway City. I will explain why we are here after I describe yesterday’s adventure.

Port of Galway, facing the Wild Atlantic Coast.

Yesterday, Thursday, May 30, was a fun day. We ate breakfast, grabbed our daypacks and set out for Glinsk.

The Way was well marked. We followed our little yellow hiker through a park, down old roads, through pastures and stopped to study the map at Mount Talbot.

Mount Talbot House is a ruin we weren’t supposed to see.

Funny thing. Mount Talbot was not on our itinerary. We studied the map on the information board. We were following the east side of Suck Valley Way Instead of the west side. See, the Suck Valley Way is a circular path that has a crucial intersection in the park in Ballygar.

We were looking down at the little post with the yellow hiker. If we had looked up we would have seen the correct direction to proceed.

We were lucky enough to get a ride back to Ballygar and try again. We were now 1-1/2 hours off schedule.

Back on course we saw this castle ruin. All that is left is this wall. Inside the walls is a tree plantation.

We walked 9 miles to Creggs and called it a day. In all we walked 15 miles. We called our host for a ride back to the B&B.

Mary & I decided that we were tired and sore and needed to end the long walking. So we caught a bus this morning to Galway and planned out the remainder of our journey, which will be via bus.

This arch was build by the Spanish in the mid 17th century.

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Wednesday, May 29.

We walked in the rain today and had our bags transported by our trail angel, Robert.

A miniature representation of the battlefield near Aughrim. The battle took place is 1691 during the first Jacobite Rising.

He gave us a guided tour around the battlefield in Aughrim then left us to walk on our own to Ahascragh.

In amongst the way markers is a little yellow arrow pointing the way for us.

He met us there and gave us a ride to Ballygar where we stayed in the Coffee Drop B&B.

We tramped through some fields but also treated to dirt and gravel roads.

These cows escorted us to the end of their field.

More rain in the forecast!

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Tuesday, May 28

The B&B had a field of calves next to the house.

All part of of their dairy.

The highlight of our day was visiting the Clonfert Cathedral. A 6th century cathedral.

Founded by one Saint Brendan The Navigator.

They have a big horse fair annually in Ballinasloe. This statue in the town square is a tribute to it.

Then onward to Ballinasloe.

St Michael’s Cathedral , Church of Ireland, in central Ballinasloe.

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Monday, May 27

What an amazing few days off the grid. I had a moment of WiFi yesterday, but otherwise have been enjoying the rural countryside of Ireland. I will try to be brief on my description.

An ancient sundial found in the backyard of our host, Matt. He believes it was from a nearby castle ruin.

When I last checked in we were in a quaint little village called Upperchurch. (I did ask if there was a Lowerchurch, but there is none.) We were on Stage 6/The Ormond Way of the Beara-Breifne Way heading toward Templederry. Despite our good intentions of walking the shortest path into Templederry we walked an extra two hours because we missed a left turn. Needless to say, we arrived in Templederry around dinner time and there were no restaurants around. We stopped in at a grocery store and the owner was very helpful. He had a stamp for our passport, asked us to sign his guestbook then gave us directions to the home of a local fellow who knows a thing or two about The Ormond Way. Matt has been organizing this section of the BBW for 30 years.

A tree had fallen and blocked the trail. We had to crawl on hands and feet to get to the other side.

All we wanted was a suggestion for a place to pitch our tents for the night. Instead he fed us, filled our heads with more historical information than we could ever remember and let us camp in his yard for the night. Then he arranged for us to stay at a friend’s house in Brownstown for 2 nights and drove us around the area as a local guide.

An old grain mill from the 18th Century.

We did walk some short portions of the trail that was off-road, but Matt chose to drive us along the sections that were on the road. He dropped us off in Portumna this morning and arranged for another friend to deliver our bags at a home in Meelick. Matt was such an angel.

Portumna, where we said farewell to Matt.

We walked close to 10 miles along the Shannon River to our destination. Saw lots of sheep grazing and several pairs of swans swimming. We climbed over numerous stiles. Our path today was level, soft and easy to follow. We even had to step in some disinfectant when we left the river levee. Some construction guys tried to prevent us from accessing the road that is used by the BBW, but we stood our ground and they let us through.

Nesting/napping swans along the Shannon River.

We were treated to tea and bread & jam by Mary, who was guardian of our bags for the day. She was kind enough to call the local B&B and they picked us up and treated us to more tea with cookies & cake.

Tomorrow we walk to Ballinasloe after breakfast. Just 18 miles. Our bags are to be delivered to our next accommodation. Fingers crossed.

These signs keep us pointed in the right direction.

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Sunday, May 26

We had an amazing encounter with the gentleman who organized the section of The Beara-Breifne Way — called the Ormand Way. But I will continue this story later as we are getting ready to hike again in a few minutes.

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Thursday, May 23, 2019

Hello, from Upperchurch, Ireland in County Tipperary! We stayed one night in Tipperary and decided to continue north. To hasten our journey, we rode a taxi into the town center of Tipperary and purchase food for the next couple of nights.

We walked a few miles out of town and a kind gentleman gave us a ride to the cute village of Cappawhite.

After a couple of hours of rest and relaxation we continued our walk toward Milestone. Before reaching Milestone we set up camp on the edge of a forest & wind farm.

Park bench along the road through a wind farm.

We got a good night’s sleep and rose early a swarm of midges (mini-mosquitoes). A quick breakfast of oatmeal and onward to Milestone via dirt roads and cattle pastures.

The old Post Office for Milestone now stands abandoned.

Milestone is now just a crossroads. No businesses here anymore. Next stop was Upperchurch. It took us nearly 3 hours to walk 4 miles through pastures, over and under electric fences. But tonight is good because we have a bed & breakfast! No camping tonight!

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In the beginning…

So, on Monday, May 6, I and two of my friends began an epic journey that leads us up through the heart of Ireland. We are following the historic path that Donal Cam O’Sullivan Beare took in 1603. He and his clan were being hunted down by the army of Queen Elizabeth I because they did not pledge their oath to her. This path is now called the Beara-Breifne Way (BBW).

Where the BBW ends, the Ulster Way begins. In all, the trail is over 620 miles, starting in the southwestern part of Ireland — Castletownbere, over the hills and mountains in the middle of the island nation and ends in the northeastern end of Ireland at the Giant’s Causeway.

We started from Castletownbere, carrying fully loaded backpacks, maps, and a feeling of excitement to be part of the few to start this walk. Fingers crossed that we are amongst the even fewer people to finish. It can be completed within 40 days. But we need some days off to rest and recover along the way. So, it may be more than 40 days for us.

More to come. Must sleep now!

To quickly bring you up to date I have made screenshots of my Instagram posts. Enjoy!